![]() Protect the cables from curious birds by enclosing them in a wall-mount snap-cover wiring conduit. You’ll need to ensure that the electrical cables are long enough to reach the outlet. If you opt for a plug-in model, install the outlet either outside the birds’ living area or at ceiling height to prevent birds from landing on and possibly dislodging the plug. Some automatic chicken doors are designed to be plugged into a standard 120-volt household outlet. ![]() The table below lists pophole sizes and overall frame dimensions for the doors mentioned in this review. The overall frame size may not be important for a full-size henhouse, but can be a significant issue for a narrow coop or one with low overhead. ![]() Our 11-inch wide popholes work fine for Royal Palm turkeys and Bourbon Red hens, but when our Bourbon tom matured he had to be coaxed into squeezing through the pophole. A smaller opening is suitable for bantam chickens and lighter-breed chickens or ducks, while a larger size is needed for heavier geese and turkeys. A 12-inch wide by 15-inch high pophole is ideal for most chickens, guineas, ducks, and lighter breeds of turkeys and geese. Regarding size, consider both the pophole size and the overall frame size. Once you decide to install an automatic chicken door, some of the things to consider are its size, its source of power, and how it’s triggered to open and close. Luckily, skillful designers now offer ready-built doors that work right out of the box. Not everyone has the skill, or the time, to tinker. Some people are handy enough to make their own automatic chicken doors, and you can find all manner of instructions on the internet - some ingenious, some flaky, and some downright dangerous. An automatic chicken door is indispensable if you’re not always there to let your backyard chickens out in the morning and close them in at night to secure them from predators.
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